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Our final plane ride |
After 13 hours of travelling and
over 20 hours of waiting around in airports, we finally flew into Morocco. Upon
arrival, we made the journey from Casablanca to Rabat and stayed in a hotel for
the night. They brought us Moroccan Dominos which had cool specialties like
cheese pizza with chunks of goat cheese. Welcome to Morocco, I guess. But really, that pizza was fantastic. The goat cheese really pulled the ensemble together.
The next day, after various
seminars, we met our host families. My host family lives in Agdal, one of the
community segments of Rabat. Their apartment is very spacious and has gorgeous
decorating. I have two host sisters, Wiam and Manal, and my host parents are Ali and Saida.
I’m also living with two girls from the NSLI-Y program: Catherine and
Elizabeth, both from Tennessee. There is a bit of a language barrier around the
house. Manal is very good at English and does a lot of the translating for us. Her
parents, fluent in both French and Arabic, speak mainly French around the home.
Both parents are working on their English and are very cute when they find the
word they’re looking for. They’re also eager to help us with our Arabic, which is a nice way to study outside of the classroom.
When we arrived at the house, the
family relayed that they hadn't found out until recently that they would have 3
girls rather than 2. Because I was the last one up on the elevator, they asked
me to stay in their study room. Most homes in Morocco have extra couches all
over that can act as beds. It’s so multiple family members can come over and have a
place to sleep. I love staying in the study, it’s nice
take a breather from the interaction all day. They also have an interesting book
collection (half French half Arabic) and a neat window that looks right onto an incredibly active street. I'll admit that the street noise took some getting used to. I usually proclaim to have a hard time sleeping with noise, but when you have little choice, it just happens. Moroccans drive in a very aggressive manner and I've heard more horns in the past 4 days than I've heard my entire life in Des Moines. Of course, all of this horn blaring happens right outside my window, as well as the blasting of music from car radios. It's just something the citizens here are used to, and I'm trying to get to that point as well. But I'll get to the driving later.
Anyway, as soon as we arrived I
noted the language barrier, and tried to find something to do with the sisters.
The study had a couple of board games stacked on a shelf, and I thought that’d
be a good way to hang out. The only game I saw that was in English was
Monopoly. I've only ever tried to play Monopoly once and I’m really not all
that familiar with the set-up. I had no idea what I was getting into as
Catherine, Elizabeth, and I sat down to play with Wiam and Manal.
We finished 2.5 hours later by just
seeing who had the most money. It was Wiam. They were far too polite to tell us
that the game was incredibly boring, but I apologized for it multiple times
during game play. I asked Manal later, and she said that her uncle had given it
to her as a present and that was the first time she’d played the actual game.
Normally, they make up the rules and it becomes a lot more interesting and fun.
Whoops. Since then we've channeled time into more interesting activities, like the World Cup. Everyone is really into soccer and the World Cup and they're cheering on their neighbor, Algeria. My host family watches the games with German commentators and German subtitles on, and I think it's the funniest thing because no one speaks a lick of German in their family. They just turn them on. I don't get it at all. They're just adorable. Anyway.
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Breakfast has quite a bit of bread |
The final activity of the day was dinner. Cuisine was not the first thing that came to mind when I justified wanting to
go to Morocco. However, in PDO everyone mentioned how excited they were so I
went into this first meal with positive expectations. I was not disappointed.
The food our host mom makes is
fantastic. The first night we had some kind of greenish soup and green beans
with beef, every kind of bread imaginable, fresh fruit, mint tea, orange juice,
and pastries. My two housemates are vegetarians, so when my host mom put the
green beans and beef dish on the table she told me, “It’s all up to you.” I
tried to clarify what some of these dishes are called, but no one really
understands the specifics I’m looking for. (“What is this?” “Soup.” “What kind
of soup?” “It’s just soup. There is no meat.” “No, no, I’m not the vegetarian,
I was just wondering what’s in this.” “I don’t understand, it’s just soup” and
so on.)
Every night since then it’s been
some kind of new dish that always tastes excellent. Bread is a holy food in Morocco, and every meal here is very bread-intensive. I don't know what half of the rolls are called, but I'm not complaining. I've yet to taste a food I didn't like.
The most surprising thing I've
tasted was the cantaloupe. I hate cantaloupe in the States. It’s hard
and bitter and has a watery taste. In Morocco, it more follows the consistency
of a pear and is much sweeter. I had 5 pieces, and told my host mom that my
mother would never believe I had touched a cantaloupe, let alone had 5 pieces. I was also told Coca-Cola was better overseas than in the US. Sadly, this is not the case. I thought I would magically enjoy it, like the cantaloupe situation. It just wasn't meant to be. However, I did discover that I love mint tea.
In Moroccan culture, mint tea is
served all the time, everywhere. We have it for breakfast and dinner, and
throughout the evenings. Mint tea is everywhere in Morocco. It’s symbolic of
welcoming guests and friendship. I didn't expect it would be as popular as it
was, and went in with negative conceptions about tea. When I was told I’d be
served tea all the time every day, I was going through strategies in my head to
make it look like I was drinking it without consuming anything. That would've
been a mistake. Mint tea is fantastic. I am determined to learn how to make it
before I go.
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The streets of the Kasbah |
Our Arabic classes began the next
day, and started with Arabic 101 reviewing the alphabet and the numbers. Our
teacher goes through every letter very carefully with us, as she believes pronunciation
is vital in Arabic. It’s funny though, after we go through this very specific pronunciation,
she has us sing this song that blunders all of the specifics, but is catchy nonetheless.(
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xYy3D6zYgY).
It easily gets stuck in your head, so be careful.
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Roommates at the Chellah gardens |
It was very short first day as we cut class short to have a briefing from a man from the Moroccan Consulate who warned against things
we’d already been told not to do. After that, a group when down to visit the
Chellah gardens and wandered through the Kasbah of the Udayas. The Kasbah has these
half white and half blue residences that are quite well known. They’re very
different from the tone of the rest of the city, and are quite beautiful in a distinct way. We also went down and touched the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. It was
funny to go to a beach and see no one swimming. I was told it had something to
do with the fish.
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Overlooking the Kesbah into Agdal |
The next day we continued with
class and went over short vowels and long vowels and listening activities where
we write the full form of words we hear. After 4 hours of morning class, we get
an hour break for lunch. We went to a small sandwich shop and I ordered completely
in French. Yes, this program is supposed to teach Arabic, but I love the idea of having to pick up all these different languages to get by in day to day life here.
After lunch, we have Darija class.
In Morocco, everyone understands MSA for religious reasons, business reasons,
and communication across regional boundaries. But everyone here actually speaks to each other in Darija.
Rather, everyone speaks a strange combination of Darija, Fusa (MSA), and
French. Darija class has kids from each level of Arabic classes thrown together,
and this teacher gives rapid-fire vocab.
After class, we went on a scavenger hunt
around Rabat, called the “Rabat City Challenge.” We started in the Medina, the “old
town” of Rabat that has these traditional shops. Our first assignment was to find a Hand of Fatima key chain, which is an Islamic symbolic of protection. As
everyone on this program is currently learning Arabic but is not necessarily
ready to accurately communicate with locals in that language, the most valuable
skill to have is proficiency in French. In our group, we had only one
member with any knowledge of French, and it was very minimal. We looked for
anyone who had an idea where to find the hand of Fatima, but no one understood
the word “keychain” in English, and we didn’t know the French translation.
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A sight on the Rabat Challenge |
Eventually we ran into some
shopkeepers who really wanted to help us, but couldn’t understand a word we
were saying. One of them asked “Espanol?” Absolutely relieved that I had finally
found some way to communicate, I yelled, perhaps too loudly, “Donde esta la
mano de Fatima!?” and he began walking quickly the other direction, signaling
us to follow. We trailed him halfway around the Medina until we arrived at a
shop with the cook serving out sausages. The Spanish-speaking Moroccan beamed
and pointed and said “Fatima!” I was confused, until Fatima waved and said “Fatima!”
I realized this guy had taken us all the way around the Medina to find the one
person here named “Fatima." We shook our heads and eventually got pointed in the
direction of someone who spoke English. He then sent us through the center of
the Medina, until we found someone else who spoke English, who helped us find
the keychain. Our success was definitely a group effort, thanks to the wonderful English-speaking shop owners in the Medina.
Later that night, I went back to the Medina with some
girls from the program with the goal of finding Jellabas
(traditional Moroccan hooded dresses) and Balghas (traditional Moroccan
slippers). The Medina gets increasingly crowded at night. Swarms of people come
to shop, as it is Moroccan tradition to buy only what you need for each day on
that day. I’ve seen my host parents go buy food for dinner around 6 o’clock
multiple times, come back and cook it, and be ready by 9. This means that
around 7:00 in the Medina, it’s very packed.
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One entrance to the Medina |
Jellaba shopping is much more
complicated than I thought. Apparently, if the starting price is less than 200
dirhams, then it isn’t a good Jellaba and the price is meant to trap the
tourists. I eventually found a Jellaba that I liked and had Paris, a girl in the program who
is fluent in French, argue the price down. It was a very intense
bargaining situation. After they wouldn’t take the price down more than 50
dirhams, Paris had me take off the Jellaba and told them we were leaving. They
then asked what price she wanted, so she typed the our price in a
calculator. They shook their heads so we began to leave. Then, they grabbed her
arm and entered a lower number in the calculator. She accepted, and I gave them
2 bills and needed 40 dirhams in change. They only gave me 20. Paris told them
they needed to give me the correct change. One shook his head and told her that
they agreed on a price 20 dirhams higher than what he had typed in the
calculator. She then told him to give me my money back and we would return the
Jellaba. The other store clerk slapped another 20 dirhams in my hand and they
shooed us out of the store. And that’s the Medina.
Unfortunately on the Balghas side,
size 9 is too large for any girl shoe in the Medina, so I’m going to have to
order them. Oh well.
Today after class, we met our
language partners. The language partner is a recently graduated Moroccan
student who will help you say whatever you want to know or will help with your
homework. Mine is named Nora and she was incredibly positive and friendly. Which is a polar opposite from how people drive.
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Moroccan stop sign |
This is my one major problem with this city. Everyone drives like a crazy person. They tell you that pedestrians don't have the right of way, but what they mean is no one ever truly has the right of way. There are no lanes. Many stoplights are taken as suggestions. You can drive in whatever part of the road you want, and it is more common to park on the sidewalks than in the street. I've ridden in quite a few taxis, and it's very difficult to find a seat belt . Worst of all, everyone honks all the time. They honk when the light doesn't turn green as fast as they want. They honk when someone is driving too slowly. They honk when someone gets into their hypothetical lane. I've never heard so much car noise. I'm also terrified of getting run over. Des Moines gives the ultimate right of way to pedestrians. I've had two lanes of traffic stop to let a person cross the street even when they're not at a crosswalk. Here, you could have the green signal to walk and still not be able to cross the street. A popular way to get around this is to walk in the middle of the street, stand on the lane divider, and wait for the other lane to clear before walking the rest of the way. I've tried it, it's terrifying, I'm going to get hit. I am not a fan of this traffic.
Ramadan is coming up soon, and you can
tell how excited everyone is getting. During Ramadan you reunite with your family, share in big celebrations after dark, sleep in late and work less hours. I've decided to fast at least
a part of Ramadan (when in Rome…) because this may be my only chance to experience this practice which is someone else's livelong reality. When I told my host mother, she broke into
the widest grin. We were told in a lecture that Muslims love Ramadan, or at least the idea of it. They said that people get pretty grumpy in the middle
of the fasting, but the practice Ramadan is near and dear to their hearts and essential to their religion. But that's a topic for another day.
So that’s where I’m at in Morocco
right now. More things, I’m sure, to come.
By the way, if you’re having a bad
day, at least you didn't accidentally ask your host sister if the call to prayer was the
sound of a Moroccan fire engine siren.